Appearing in the early 80s, Anti-fashionism lifted all strict standards of beauty and changed the operating trend of the billion-dollar fashion industry.
Despite being an inspiring industry, fashion still has strict standards. Going back to the past, every design or seam, slice in fashion follows long-standing standards to bring creative quintessence to the fashion world. However, everything changed when fashion entered the 90s of the 20th century. Human history witnessed a strong transformation of the fashion village when the idea of Anti-fashion ( Anti-fashion ) was born. The appearance of this concept was like a “shocking explosion” to the thinking of the fashion village at that time and became a guide for big design names to assert their position in the fierce elimination of the industry. fashion industry.
WHAT IS “ANTI-FASHION”?
Anti-fashion, also known as “anti-fashion”, is a term used to describe styles or trends of clothing that oppose current mainstream fashion standards. It could be for political purposes, against the war, or simply random for personal preference. Going against the general trend, the Anti-fashion movement is supported by many famous contemporary designers. For them, this concept is like a bridge between fashion heritages with personal design language and at the same time, expressing a unique creative “me”.
Pioneers in the WORLD’S “RESPONSIBLE FASHION” DISTRICT
Speaking of Anti-fashionism, it is impossible not to mention the “eccentric” Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto. He was one of the first people who “laid the foundation brick” to develop and popularize the fashion trend that goes against this general rule. When fashion is likened to an old “washing tub” with familiar trends that keep repeating to the point of being boring and repetitive, Yohji has brought a “new breeze” to the high-end catwalks in Paris. With free, liberal cropping lines, soft layers stacked on a mysterious black fabric, Yohji Yamamoto has successfully asserted his position in the realm of haute couture.
(Photo: Yohji Yamamoto)
(Photo: Yohji Yamamoto)
Following the school of Deconstructions, the costumes from Maison Martin Margiela are pioneering designs that are likened to architectural works embellished on the human body. He shows his unique artistic eye through unfinished asymmetrical structures, unpredictable slices, and irregular seams. His innovative aesthetic thinking, not bound by any standards, creates a very personal color for his fashion collections.
BSTS BEARING THE FASHION SPIRIT OF “ANTI-FASHION” OF 2021
Amidst the fanciful smoke, designer Rei Kawakubo created the Comme des Garçons Autumn – Winter 2021 collection with framed skirt designs that “exaggerated” like going back to the old Victorian era. Lace and tulle patches are dotted across the main black and white fabric background. Comme des Garçons’ Fall – Winter 2021 designs continue to “fascinate” the world with their unique, strange, and mysterious thinking.
(Photo: Comme des Garçons)
(Photo: Comme des Garçons)
(Photo: Comme des Garçons)
In the Autumn-Winter 2021/22 couture season, Viktor & Rolf recreated the classic European royal play with positivity, sublimation, and originality in each design. The audience was overwhelmed in the ermine coats typical for kings and the swelling was unusually “exaggerated”. Not only using recycled and redundant materials for high-fashion creations, the designer duo also showed their satire with conventional norms. The appearance of oversized ribbons with a proud message and large rhinestone details “show off” also convey the challenging creative energy of Viktor & Rolf.
(Photo: Viktor & Rolf)
(Photo: Viktor & Rolf)
(Photo: Viktor & Rolf)
And of course indispensable designer “unique and spoiled” Rick Owens. The king of Post-apocalypticism (post-apocalyptic) has brought the Fall 2021 Ready-To-Wear collection with sequined jumpsuits and “hype” long life jackets. Owens delivered a hauntingly dark catwalk as his models strode boldly in outlandish designs and respirators in the midst of a pandemic.
(Picture: Rick Owens)
(Picture: Rick Owens)
(Picture: Rick Owens)
WHAT FUTURE FOR ANTI-FASHIONISM?
In 2021, we can easily see a positive change in the billion-dollar industry as the “big guys” in the industry gradually break the rules and standards on the catwalks. Similar to respecting the different body characteristics, ethnicity or weight of models, high-end fashion houses and the new generation of fashionistas have also had a more open view of outstanding designs. out of fashion standards.
(Photo: Viktor & Rolf)
Fashion is land for creativity to “fly and jump”, imposing measures of perfect beauty will inadvertently lose the elements of excitement and surprise in design. Therefore, despite many times causing controversy in the fashion industry, anti-fashionism has still made significant contributions to bringing diversity and novelty in the world fashion industry.
Source: ELLE Women Magazine
